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Alone on the Wall : Alex Honnold and the Ultimate Limits of Adventure, by Alex Honnold David Roberts
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Détails sur le produit
Broché: 256 pages
Editeur : Pan Books (31 mai 2016)
Collection : Pan Books
Langue : Anglais
ISBN-10: 1447282736
ISBN-13: 978-1447282730
Dimensions du produit:
19,8 x 1,7 x 13 cm
Moyenne des commentaires client :
4.0 étoiles sur 5
1 commentaire client
Classement des meilleures ventes d'Amazon:
73.077 en Livres (Voir les 100 premiers en Livres)
Alex Honnold est un des grimpeurs modernes les plus célèbre, essentiellement pour sa prédilection à faire des solos complètement non assurés sur de grandes parois. Ce genre d'exploit non seulement demande une grande dextérité, car il s'agit de voies qui cotent en suivant le système français entre le 7 et le 9 (système US 5.10 à 5.13), mais en plus une maîtrise de soi et une concentration totales. Il n'est pas le seul à pratiquer ce genre de sport risqué, mais il est certainement celui qui le pratique le plus et avec une virtuosité hors norme. Il est notamment de venu célèbre grâce à plusieurs documentaires où il rejoue les passages marquants de ses grands solos.Ce livre écrit à deux mains, raconte ses principales réussites sur les dernières années (se termine en 2014) et fournit un certain nombre d'éléments biographiques. Alternativement Alex Honnold et David Roberts « passent en tête ». L'ensemble se lit facilement. Le lecteur a plaisir à fait connaissance avec ce jeune homme qui s'approche de la trentaine et qui s'interroge sur le fait de savoir s'il n'a pas déjà dépassé le meilleure des ses capacités. L’intérêt du livre, qui n’atteint pas le style ou la qualité des grands récits de montagne (Honnold s'intéresse beaucoup plus à la grimpe qu'à l'écriture qui lui fait perdre du temps), réside dans la simplicité de son héros et dans le fait qu’il nous fait partager certaines de ses réflexions. Compte tenu de ses choix, le danger et la mort sont évidemment très présents. On découvre un garçon très conscient des risques qu’il prend, mais aussi de ses capacités et des conditions qui lui ont permis ses exploits. L’anonymat et la solitude lui ont permis de se concentrer et de faire ses solos sans être dérangés. Dans un passage qui pourrait être considéré comme le « crux » du livre, Honnold nous livre le constat que sa notoriété l’empêche de recréer ces conditions nécessaires et que du coup, il ne pourra probablement jamais libérer totalement El Capitan, ce qui lui semble pourtant accessible techniquement.Au total un garçon attachant qu’on aimerait voir vivre encore longtemps. Au vu du nombre de d’accidents mortels, de toute sorte, que le livre relate, on souhaite naturellement qu’Honnold décide enfin de s’assurer systématiquement."I've done a lot of thinking about fear. For me, the crucial question is not how to climb without fear -- that's impossible-- but how to deal with it when it creeps into your nerve endings. (...) If I have a certain gift it's the ability to keep myself together in places that allow no room for error. I somehow know in such a fix --like the moves above Thank god legde (la photo de la première page) on half dome where I stalled in 2008-- how to breathe deeply, calm myself, and get on with it".PS. Le 3 juin 2017 il a finalement libéré El Capitan.
I became interested in Alex Honnold after the 60 minutes story. I never forgot his name, and just got around to ordering this book for my Kindle during an extended medical leave due to surgery . I thoroughly enjoyed his descriptions of the many "rocks" he's climbed. Having never been a climber myself, I was afraid it would be too technical to hold my interest. I couldn't have been more wrong. I was fascinated by his explaining how and why he's chosen to do this with his life. I also enjoyed reading about his various climbing partners and their adventures. I wish I had heard of him before our family visited Yosemite in 2011, as I would have heeded the park stranger's invitation to spend some time in El Cap meadow with a pair of binoculars to watch the climbers.
I was surprised after reading Alone On The Wall to discover that David Roberts is a climber, because when I was reading this book, it really seemed like he didn't "get it". It didn't seem like Roberts really understood or was on board with what Honnold was and is doing--his lifestyle, his climbing, and yes, his free soloing. Maybe it was because he didn't insert his own opinion into things--a lot of Roberts' writing is just summarizing interviews with other people. But there's a ton of people out there who either don't climb or climb more conservatively who have opinions about Honnold, and if I wanted to hear that, I'd read any of the hundreds of articles about Honnold on the internet. This book was a chance to hear from Honnold and find out what he thinks, and instead Roberts' writing is about what everyone else thinks--I just don't care about that.For the parts of the book which were actually written by Honnold--a lot of what he wrote is just responding to what other people say, which yields some insights, but I'd much rather have read what Honnold wanted to say. The problem here maybe is that Honnold doesn't want to say anything--he'd rather be out climbing. Which is great--that's how he became the climber who inspires me. But it doesn't make for a great book.I'll also point out that this book was published two years ago as of this review, and was probably mostly written in the year before that. In that time, I've seen Honnold mature a lot--his interviews on TV and podcasts show a person who has had a lot of emotional and mental growth over the last few years. The Honnold who wrote passages in Alone On The Wall is not the Honnold we know today--the one who wrote this is a bit immature, a bit distracted. I get the feeling that Honnold was pressured to write this book a bit before he was really ready to be writing a book--it's a bit weird to write your story before it's over. I really hope this isn't the last book we see from Honnold, because I think if he were to write a book now or later in his life, it would be a lot better.Contrast this with The Push by Tommy Caldwell. There's a book written by an older climber who knew what he wanted to write. At the surface level, it turns out to be a book that's much less about climbing, but it's far more vulnerable and insightful, and gives readers a much better understanding of what motivated Caldwell to become one of the best climbers in the world.
I highly recommend this book to anyone who enjoys sports/adventure biography. First of all, the format of the book is easy to follow with two narratives, one of Alex and one of the co-author, D. Robert. At first, I wondered why Alex chose this format as he already writes decently. Then, I realized this format provided a third person perspective for the readers to appreciate the gravity of some of the accomplishment. Alex's choice of co-author definitely was superb - I have read several D. Robert's books, always enjoyed them. Secondly, aside from the obvious (but still thrilling) climbing accomplishment/adventure, Alex's sense of humor really came through. The book was very entertaining to read! Finally, I think anyone who appreciates athleticism/adventure, climber or not (I have climbed but am not an avid climber), will enjoy this book for a lot of the "lessons" are universal. A side note, I really appreciate Alex's downplaying on those "lessons" - he doesn't overstate them, but really just tells a story and lets the readers decipher whatever apply to them. It is not "preachy", even though it still inspires the audience.
In my youth I climbed the route Alex went up in 3 days of the hardest climbing I had ever climbed.I spent the whole book nervously reading, it’s been 25 years since I have been in the route but still remember those cruxes. The achievements Alex has made in his career are incredible. To the non-climbers the choices on routes Alex chooses to solo may seem crazy, to those of us who have climbed seriously know how insanely bold those decisions are. The only place I have ever experienced complete concentration with no outside influences was leading a pitch. I could relate to Alex’s descriptions and emotional battles. He is in a class of his own, I hope to never open a paper to find out we have lost this person.
Was absolutely captivated. Especially by the first 3 or 4 chapters which explain the Video shoots of Alex free-solo climbing and how he became a modern legend. Very interesting as he explains what he's thinking and his mental preparation for free soloing. Also how he approaches his climbs and general outlook on life and risk-taking. If you watch his videos on YouTube, you'll buy and read the book. What he can do on the face of sheer mountain faces is unbelievable and has to be seen to be believed.
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